UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES IN ALBANIA

FACTS AND FIGURES

173 nautical miles
185 km
19 days in Albania
7 days in port
12 days at anchor

19 DAYS OF ADVENTURE IN ALBANIA – A DIFFERENT AND AUTHENTIC COUNTRY

On 18 May we left Bar for Albania, a country about which we had little information and about which we had to do a lot of research before arriving, as maritime tourism has only been present in the country for a few years. Nautical infrastructures are limited to one marina for recreational boating in the whole country, while the other ports are used for commercial and industrial activities. Albania has a population of approximately 3 million inhabitants. It does not belong to the European Union, so we already knew that our stay in this country would be very different from everything we had known so far in Europe.

To enter the country we had to contact an agent who took care of all the necessary formalities.

The journey from Bar to Shengjin, our port of entry, was a challenge. Not only because it was one of the longest drives since our departure, but also because of the storm and stormy weather that surprised us shortly before we arrived at the port. Darkness, heavy rain and lightning close to the ship complicated navigation and visibility. When we sighted port, we were relieved and happy to have arrived safely.

The port of Shengjin, where we docked, is one of the commercial ports and is full of tankers, industrial and fishing boats. Our agent was waiting for our arrival in his car in the pouring rain. After docking next to two impressive ships, we went to his office, which is a table in a hotel restaurant near the port. Over a drink, the agent busied himself with completing the required documentation. The next day, he handed over the sailing permit and gave us a tour of the city in his car.

Shengjin is in the midst of tourism development. Active construction of buildings and hotels for mass beach tourism can be seen on every corner. The city has a long beach and a promenade lined with restaurants and hotels.

Our second stop in Albania was in stark contrast to Shengjin. We anchored at Rodoni beach, surrounded by nature, wild horses, a Franciscan church and a 15th century castle. This place is mainly visited by locals, although there were also some tourists.

Despite the beauty of the beach, we came across a worrying accumulation of rubbish, which prompted us to initiate a clean-up. Luckily, they only wanted to check our documentation and that we had permission to be in the country. They also asked us what day we planned to leave. We informed them that we planned to continue the next morning.

The next day, we went for a walk, and struck up a conversation with a friendly security guard from Cap Rodoni, who shared with us many details about Albania and its political events of the last decades. While we were talking, the two policemen from the previous day walked past us and asked why we were still here. After a brief phone call, we were asked to leave the site immediately, as we did not have permission to be at this site unescorted, which had not been a problem the day before. We were also ordered to leave the site immediately with our boat. As it was already 11 o’clock at night and the darkness posed a high risk for our continuation of the trip due to the numerous unlit fishing nets, we were fortunately able to agree not to leave until the next day, on the condition of switching on the AIS signal to locate our boat.

After these situations and numerous conversations, we realised that although Albania has left official communism behind, this mentality is still very much ingrained in some people.

In Durres, we anchored near the industrial port, which we had to access to reach the city. Although the city itself offered little to see, we took the opportunity to stock up on supplies to continue our journey to Saranda, our last stop before Greece. Here we planned to stay for a week so that we could explore the interior of the country by rental car.

The port of Saranda is a transit port for ferries and cruise ships, mainly from Greece, and has few berths for recreational vessels. These can be obtained by contacting an agent in advance, who will also take care of departure formalities. However, berthing may have to be arranged for incoming cruise ships.

Saranda reminded us in many ways of Shengjin, with an infrastructure geared towards mass tourism. However, the proximity to Greece is noticeable, and tourism has been more present there for several years than in the north. From here, we were able to visit several towns in the Albanian hinterland, which are characterised by their unspoilt nature, tradition and authenticity.

The local people we spoke to were very friendly and willing to share information about the country. Despite the sometimes very precarious conditions, we always felt a great willingness to help, something we are not used to in Central Europe.

With an average salary of €400 per month, prices in Albania are considerably lower than in Central Europe, except for imported products. This makes the country very attractive for vacations or to live after retirement. However, this attraction leads to a large concentration of people and uncontrolled construction in the coastal areas of the country.

We were very positively surprised by this country and we know that one day we will return.

THE HIGHLIGHTS OF ALBANIA

PORTO PALERMO:It is situated 30 kms from Saranda, on the Albanian Riviera. Here is
situated the castle Porto Palermo which is worth a visit. It is the best preserved
fortress erected in the region, which was built by Ali Pasha.

GJIROKASTRA: It is a beautiful city located 54 km from Saranda. The historic center is considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is a rare example of a well-preserved Ottoman city, built by peasants. The city is dominated by the very well preserved Gjirokastra fortress, which is covered with stone vaults along most of its length.

BLUE EYE: It is a karstic source located between Saranda and Gjirokastra. It is a hole in the ground from which water flows in large quantities and with incredible force and with a depth of at least 50 meters.

BUTRINT: It is National Archeological Park located in the south of Saranda with a special atmosphere created by a mix of archaeology, monuments and nature. It is best to visit this park as early in the morning as possible, as it is overrun by tourists at later hours.

PERMET: It is a city known for its impressive mountain landscape, its traditional cuisine and its natural hot springs.

BERAT: It is known as the city of a thousand windows. It is a city full of history and architectural beauty. From the castle you have a beautiful view of the city and its surroundings. Don’t miss to try the local food and to buy some fruits and vegetables at the multiple local markets.